Days 6 and 7 on the Camino

Once again I've been in wifi limbo. I actually still don't have a connection but I decided to post this using my cell phone.

Day 6 was difficult, if ultimately rewarding in its own ways.  After a cold and unpleasant night in Rabinal, I left in the cold rain towards Acebo about 18km away.  Climbing up to the highest point of the Camino, where the famous landmark the Cruz de Fero is located was a bit of a struggle.  Famously, pilgrims on the Camino leave behind a rock they have carried from home behind at the Cruz de Fero, symbolizing their burdens being left behind.  While I don't feel any less metaphysically burdened, I am glad the big rock is no longer weighing my bag down. 

Saw lots of snow up at the top, and spent some time at a rest stop waiting for the rain and wind to die down.  Thankfully it did while I made my decent into Acebo.  The decent sucked.  Very steep paths, covered in sharp rocks.  My feet received a few blisters and my ankles had a few close calls, but in the end all was well.  I did pass by the residence of the last Knight Templar on my way down.  He runs a popular alburgues, and keeps watch over the valley below, which was once gifted to the Templar's by the king of Spain to guard in the 12th century. 

Finally, after nearly 6 hours of hiking, I reached my destination, a lovely bed and breakfast place that thankfully had warm beds and a nice hot shower.  I also met some fellow pilgrims, including an American, who were zooming through the Camino at an incredible pace.  They were walking 30 to 40 km a day, which blew my mind.  They flew past me while coming down the mountain.

  In the end I think people do the Camino in the way that suits them.  I like to stop and rest frequently, enjoying the nature and exploring the towns.  Playing tourist as well as pilgrim.  A few days ago I had a discussion with someone who had a completely different attitude, and felt that by taking rest days and staying in hotels rather than alburgues, and by being a tourist, I was missing the point of the Camino. I think this is an argument that has gone on for centuries, it's a common theme in Christianity in Europe.  Does the pious man need to suffer?  Is pain and misery a kind of sacrement?  Is it somehow unholy to enjoy the pilgrimage?  I don't think so, but I respect that others might.  In the end I think the Camino is a very individual experience.  No matter where you start, how long it takes, where you sleep or what you eat, we are all walking or riding towards Santiago as pilgrims.  My Camino is not your Camino, but that doesn't make it any more or less valid than any other.  Personally, I prefer to limit my suffering as much as possible, but to each their own. 

Day 7 was a much more relaxing and easy day.  Besides a quick shower in the morning after I left the very comfortable B&B, it actually got very warm as I headed towards the city of ponferadda, where I would be taking my next rest day.  It actually got so warm I had to take my coat off and enjoy the sun.  I took a number of breaks, sitting on the side of roads, in nice patches by trees relaxing and reading a bit in the sun.  After the freezing snow and hail of the previous day's it was quite the turn around. 

I took plenty of great pictures of the mountains and valleys the Camino traveled along which I will post once I get WIFI again.  This was another 18km day, but this pace both allowed me to take today, my birthday, off, but also put me ahead of schedule allowing me a slightly easier schedule while making the ascent into the next mountains region later in the week.  I am now about a third of the way through my Camino, with about 200 km to go.  Looking forward to seeing what comes next.  So far this has been an amazing experience, full of difficulties and challenges to be overcome, and rewards of great beauty, confidence, encouragement and accomplishment. Buen Camino!